Day 20 – Close Doesn’t Count

Today I woke up at 5am to go meet James the tour guide, to ride motos, climb mountains, and check out cool temples. I’m not gonna write too much today as I have so many awesome photos and I am feeling a little under the weather. So today is gonna be a little different format than usual.

Me and James traveled from Siem Reap, to Kulen mountain today. We stopped at I think about 6 culturally significant sites on the way. The route to Kulen is about 1.5 hours long but because we were touring and James decided we should off road our Shitty motos through sandy farm roads. we Arrived at Kulen mountain 6.5 hour after we left.

When we actually got to the mountain we were greeted by some new Mine fields that weren’t there a year ago as James explained, they just keep finding new ordinance in the area. As this was a Khmer Rouge stronghold during the war.

laterite quarry, where the laterite for Angkor Wat was excavated.

So the big highlight of the day was Rappelling off of kulen mountain to the base of the sandstone cliffs lining the mountain. After rappelling though, we had to climb back up. Now as a side note here, there is no bolts or routes at all in this area. So when I say we made our own route up, we literally picked a spot and James free solo’d the the first 25 feet. from there we had anchor spots and we traversed across some sand stone ledges to a bat cave that James had found on a previous trip up to this area. It was a super cool experience.

Carvings for the king stretch all the way down the river for over a kilometer.
Off roading Motos through burnt farmers fields, this was surreal.
In Kulen valley
I think this temple is called banteay mu cheay, it was by far the coolest Angkorian site i’ve visited

On the way back to Siem Reap from Kulen, I had a very very near miss with a pickup truck with only one headlight. Here in Cambodia bikes and Motos are the most populous thing on the road, so one headlight means its a moto. It was dusk, it is always smoky at dusk here, and I was over taking a semi truck in the oncoming lane. When I realized the situation I was in, I slammed on my breaks. Now when your on a Moto going 90kph and you lock your breaks, the bike wants to slide out from under you. I planted both my feet to right the bike, and smashed on the throttle, still doing about 80 and swung in behind the semi truck. The pickup passed me as I was swerving into safety. It missed me by about 0.1 seconds, the drivers here don’t stop. It is the wild wild east. This is by far the closest I’ve ever come to a life ending crash ever on a bike or in a vehicle. It scared me to my core. Its the only time I’ve ever had my life flash before my eyes. After a brief minute to catch my breath on the side of the road and to check and see if there was indeed any shit in my pants. We continued the drive back to Siem Reap with no further incident.

This is a sandstone quarry where the blocks for Angkor wat were cut from
Just casually driving by a Minefield, no big deal.

Now I haven’t spoken too much about the food today or showed pictures as the food we ate today was literally nothing to write home about. I didn’t have a single meal that was notable.

Off the top of Mt Kulen
Sandstone cliffs over Kulen
Rappelling down Mt Kulen
Posing on a rock ledge, you can tell I was Laughing at myself.
Trees are always in.
Climbing up a chimney in the cave
Inside the bat cave, you can see all the lose pieces of sandstone that make up this cave

I am actually writing this in the morning of my 21st day as when I got back last night I immediately passed out. 13 hours of hard riding and constant sun will do that too you. Today I leave Cambodia and the shitty Khmer food behind to head to Bali. Who ever told me the food was better here than Thailand was full of shit.

Hanging out at Kulen mountain
Me and James after successfully ascending Back on top of Kulen
Sunset over Mt Kulen

Even After that close call this was one of my favorite days of this trip, Big shout out to James at Kingdom Climbers for showing me around on a private tour of his favorite spots.


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